Gumbo
While there are no hard and set rules, it’s generally agreed that roux and the “holy trinity” of celery, onion and green bell pepper are the foundation of gumbo, a pleasantly spicy, thick soup that was declared Louisiana’s official state dish in 2004. From there, gumbo can include a wide range of meat, seafood and vegetables. (Chicken, andouille sausage and shrimp are highlighted in this version.) The roux — a combination of vegetable oil and flour, in this case — takes time and patience, as it needs to be continuously stirred to achieve a deep shade of brown. To break up the work, the roux can be prepared up to a week in advance, and the gumbo can be made the day before eating. (Second-day gumbo has an even deeper flavor.) Filé powder, which is ground sassafras leaves found in the spice aisle or online, is optional, but if using, sprinkle some over each bowl, or stir it into the pot off the heat to thicken and flavor the soup.
Ingredients
- 1cup vegetable oil
- 1cup all-purpose flour
- 12ounces andouille sausage, thinly sliced
- 1tablespoon vegetable oil
- 1 1/2pounds chicken thighs, cut into bite-size pieces
- Kosher salt (Diamond Crystal) and black pepper
- 4large celery ribs, finely diced
- 1large yellow onion, finely diced
- 1large green bell pepper, finely diced
- 6garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 1 to 2tablespoons Cajun seasoning, to taste
- 2bay leaves, fresh or dried
- 1tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried thyme
- 6cups low-sodium chicken broth, plus more as needed
- Cayenne pepper, to taste
- 12ounces frozen cut okra, or fresh okra, trimmed and sliced into ½-inch rounds
- 1pound large peeled and deveined shrimp, tails on or off
- Filè powder (optional), as needed
- White rice and sliced scallions, for serving
Directions
Prepare the roux: In a large pan or Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium. Add the flour, ¼ cup at a time, whisking, so there are no lumps. Continue to whisking (or stir with a wooden spoon) as the roux first foams, then gradually turns from white to a milk chocolate hue. (It will be blond, tan and a peanut butter hue in between.) This process can take 35 minutes to 1 hour, depending on the heat source and vessel. It’s important to continue stirring and scraping down the edges of the pan so the flour doesn't burn. Reduce the heat, if necessary.
Once the roux reaches the milk chocolate stage, remove it from the heat and let it cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally. The residual heat from the pot will get the roux to an even darker shade of brown. If not immediately using the roux, transfer it to an airtight container and store in the fridge for up to 1 week.
Prepare the gumbo: Heat a large (5 1/2-quart) Dutch oven over medium-high. Add the sausage and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer the sausage with a slotted spoon to a plate. Add 1 tablespoon of oil to the Dutch oven, then add the chicken, seasoning it with salt (about 2 teaspoons) and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until it’s golden, about 10 minutes. Reduce the heat if necessary. Transfer the chicken to the plate with the sausage.
Add the celery, onion and bell pepper. Season with salt (about 1 teaspoon) and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the roux, stirring until well combined. Reduce the heat to medium-low, being mindful not to burn the roux, and cook, stirring continuously, until the vegetables have softened, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Stir in the Cajun seasoning (start with 1 tablespoon), bay leaves and thyme.
Add the broth and increase the heat to high. Bring to a boil, stirring often to make sure nothing sticks to the bottom of the pot. Reduce to medium-low and gently simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour. Skim any excess oils that rise to the top.
Return the sausage and chicken to the Dutch oven. Simmer, occasionally stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot, for 30 minutes. Taste and adjust salt, Cajun spice and cayenne, if desired. (The gumbo should have just enough heat to make you take notice, but not so much as to overwhelm all the other flavors.) If preparing the gumbo ahead, remove from the heat now (see Tip). Stir in the okra and cook for 15 minutes. If the gumbo is too thick, add a little more broth, if needed. (Be mindful that the shrimp, added next, will also release liquid).
Stir in the shrimp and simmer until just cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. Taste, adjust seasoning, if needed, and remove from the heat. If using filè, stir 2 to 3 teaspoons directly into the pot to reach desired thickness and seasoning; or have everyone sprinkle it on their own bowls. (Be mindful that a little goes a long way.) Serve gumbo in bowls with a side of white rice and top with scallions.
Notes
If making the gumbo ahead, cool to room temperature, cover the pot and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. To reheat, bring the gumbo to a simmer, then proceed with the recipe, starting with adding the okra in Step 6.