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Spaghetti in the dead of summer, when tomatoes are at peak ripeness and break down quickly to coat any pasta in irresistible flavor, is the best time to eat spaghetti. You won’t need a lot of time to make this, just one big pan (use your largest and deepest) and the resolve not to eat the whole pile of noodles yourself. You'll want a slightly larger cast-iron skillet here — either a 12-inch version, or a deep 10-inch — to avoid spillage. Make sure to cover the pasta with a lid or foil so it cooks faster, and to stir from time to time. Since you’re not draining the noodles as you would in a traditional pasta dish, it’s good to know that different noodle shapes, sizes and brands may soak up liquid differently and that some tomatoes may be juicier than others. Simmer as long as needed get the sauce to a consistency that’s just right for you.
Ingredients
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2tablespoons olive oil 1yellow onion, thinly sliced 4garlic cloves, thinly sliced Pinch of red-pepper flakes, to taste 1tablespoon cider vinegar 12ounces thin spaghetti or linguine, broken in half 2pounds Roma or Campari tomatoes, chopped (about 8 to 12 tomatoes) 1teaspoon kosher salt 1/2teaspoon black pepper 2ounces finely grated Parmesan (about 1/2 cup), plus more for serving About 1 cup basil leaves, for serving
Directions
Heat oil in a very large, deep cast-iron skillet (or a Dutch oven) over medium-low. Add onion and cook until softening, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes more. Add red-pepper flakes and vinegar, and stir until the vinegar evaporates. Add pasta, followed by the tomatoes, and pour 2 3/4 cup water over the top. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover with a lid and bring to a boil. Simmer over medium-low heat until the pasta is just tender, about 10 minutes, stirring as needed so the pasta doesn’t stick. Uncover, and continue cooking until the liquid has evaporated to a loose sauce, just enough to coat your noodles with flavor, 5 to 8 minutes more. (If there’s still too much liquid at the bottom of your pan for your tastes, simmer a little longer.) Taste and add more salt and pepper as needed. Toss with cheese and basil to melt the cheese. Serve warm.
Notes
Some cast-iron skillets come with a matching lid, which makes the skillet operate a bit like a miniature stovetop oven, cooking evenly and basting the food with flavor and steam. If you don’t have one, use a lid from another pan, or two layers of thick foil, folded at the center and large enough to cover your pan.
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